As the last leg of the biannual Ready-to-Wear international shows come to a close, we cut to the chase and pick out the looks, styles, silhouettes, details and colours that would prove to make definitive trend headlines for the approaching Fall/Winter 2017 season. With the current heat surrounding issues related to feminism, the Muslim ban, racial discrimination, to name a few, the fashion fraternity comprising of designers and brands collectively sent their own propositions propelling a message of equality and women empowerment, down the runways along with their collections. Silhouettes that enhanced femininity and allowed a greater room for movement dominated the ramps accompanied by various slogan emblazoned pieces such as the ‘We Should All Be Feminists’ trend fronted by Dior’s Maria Grazia Chiuri.
With such an existential crisis looming over the world and a need to express oneself becoming more required than ever before, a sense of balance and introspection is bound to emerge. Cosmic influences and spiritual inspirations presented themselves as a direct reflection of our true identities and souls and how these aspects are being affected by the chaos prevalent in the outside world – take it as the yin to this yang.
But the real question remains, is highlighting femininity within your collections enough or are we missing the point here? A true enactment of the same would be when there are equal – if not more – women at top positions at fashion houses and when we increasingly continue to become less judgmental about the looks, colour and curves (or lack thereof) of female models. A move that would in actuality be considered an achievement and send a bolder message across than a menswear-inspired power suit or a T-shirt that blares a message for feminism.
The fashion industry collectively bids adieu to its fascination with the high-waist length trend a notch further (literally) for the coming season. Trousers, skirts, pants, shorts, all grazed the area just below where the ribcage starts, at multiple designer’s and brand’s collections featured during the recently concluded fashion weeks. The rib line is the new waist line which is being explored with the entire emergence of wide belts and corsetry-inspired waist details for Fall 2017.
With the current heat surrounding woman empowerment throughout the world, the fashion fraternity made sure to send clear messages down the ramp minus the need to display any kind of logos or slogans. Structured shoulders lent out a powerful dominance with designers bringing forth masculine tailored silhouettes through bold, exaggerated and pointy shoulders.
Belts were an unmissable part of the Fall/Winter 2017 showcase. Big, wide belts served as the accessory to-go for all kinds of collections – be it sporty chic at No. 21, power suiting at Balmain and Hérmes or ultra-feminine and demure like at Elie Saab. Wide, bold and making a statement by either a chunky decorative buckle or presenting itself as a looped-in version over dresses, gowns, jackets and coats, trousers and skirts the belt made a definitive mark for the approaching season.
An air of mysticism surrounds the Fall 2017 season. Motifs, prints and 3D renders of stars, planets and constellations were found adorning sheer pleats on dresses and gowns at Dior, bags at Manish Arora, hemlines cut-out in the shape of stars at Mugler and appliqué patchwork at Dolce and Gabanna and Alberta Ferretti. Outer space themes embodied the collections at Chanel and Christopher Kane with shiny metallics in the form of sequins and paillettes emerging over garments and accessories.
The latest in mixed media styling is the two-in-one dress trend which has taken the runway by storm. What the trend entails is typically a dress within a dress noticeably of another colour, print or material altogether. Presenting itself in different variations and styles, like free flowing dresses, gowns and even making a statement in power suiting inspired looks, the two-in-one dress trend has a lot of space for creative experimentation to go unrestricted.
Menswear inspired silhouettes and prints raided the runways at Milan and Paris for the coming season. Menswear staples such as tailored blazers and jackets featuring tartan and striped prints, gave a fresh spin on womenswear classics in feminine silhouettes and power suiting. Fabrics such as wool, tweed and classic suiting material paired with more conventional styles trending for Fall/Winter 2017 found their way marching down the runways of the recently concluded shows.
Fashion sans drama is plain lackluster, and what spells drama better than a generous dose of swinging, sparkling fringes? This season, designers have revisited the roaring twenties after a silent past three seasons by presenting fringed details in copious quantities. Tiered and layered over dresses, serving as trims on the hemlines of coats, jackets and skirts or adorning as details over sleeves and accessories such as bags – the fringe might as well be one of the main details apart from ruffles and frills this fall.
Without any doubt, this season’s identity lies in exuding femininity – the fabric of choice being transparent sheer embroidered with lace or studded with crystals. An increasingly hefty number of designers and brands swayed coyness aside and introduced a sneak-peak concept within their garments owing to transparent nets and tulles in full length dresses, skirts layered with knits and blazers, lace embroidered sheer tops and stockings and flowy summer dresses.
Now that faux fur has completely entered the fashion lexicon, every facet imaginable of the luxe fabric is regaining its popularity. The new season presents the luxe material in a vibrant colour palette – no longer restricted to typical neutrals and blacks. Come this winter, coloured fur will be seen adoring the hemlines of jackets, coats and dresses alike or as trims on the sleeves of the same. Expect to see vibrant patches of fur placed in experimentative geometrical patterns over major winter looks.
All Laced Up
Despite showing up on runways season after season, at times in-the-face and at other times as a subtle hint, the lace-up detail trend refuses to budge entirely from the fashion scene. This season the trend has decided to revisit the bygone Victorian era and present itself in the form of laced up corsetry inspired waist-belts, sitting atop yokes of coat-dresses and re-introducing themselves over ballet-flat inspired shoes.