Spring/Summer 2015 madness has commenced as keen fashion bloggers, street style stars, photographers and other fashion enthusiasts thronged to the streets of New York and London in their most stylish get-ups and favourite designer labels. New York referred to the ’70s decade which involved luxe eveningwear, tailored workwear and subtle hints of the styles influenced by the time period – a bit of suede, Op art prints, higher necks and a slight flaring. There was visible flare and fluting of trousers, dramatically done in the case of jumpsuits, high-necked tees, crochet knits and suede outerwear, the references were all there. However, instead of traditional ’70s looks, designers indulged in an essence of the decade in cuts, garments, colours or prints, retaining the flavour of today!
On the other hand, London decided to refer to a bit of each decade – there were ’70s faux fur, disco luxe, glam rock, psychedelic prints, sequin and crochet; ’60s shift shapes, boxy tops, large patch pockets; ’40s cape sleeves, bib fronted dresses; ’50s twinsets and duchesse pantsuits. London also had a very strong influence of sports luxe from the ’90s – think bomber jackets, tube socks, spaghetti straps, knitwear panelled with sheer fabrics, camisole dresses and sneakers. Rounding up the most prominent trends from the two fashion capitals, FFT has selected look, silhouette, print and colour trends for the season.
A major theme this season, the asymmetric cut was a part and parcel of every show. Spliced fabrics were reassembled in geometric shapes on sheer bases, bias cut forms were present on skirts, uneven hemlines defined the dresses, one-shoulder garments and multiple layers rendered a sense of unevenness to the garments. Several dresses boasted of dual prints while carrying off the half-n-half trend, only done in a vertical fashion and others, stood out through the variation in length. The addition of peplums was also seen, attached across a shoulder and on trouser waists which added to the collage-like effect of falling off fabric randomly taped together. Asymmetry was not only embraced by silhouette details and shapes but also through unequal and jagged prints.
The safari adventure took on a strong utilitarian look that was reflected in military shades of olive, forest green and moss, instead of the typical khaki and beige. The effortless, masculine inspired pieces that resemble urban warriors had a touch of femininity at New York – jumpsuits with plunging necklines, shirtdresses with draped slits, short dresses cinched at the waist with leather or tie-down belts. London led the fray with easy functionality styles like the classic army jacket or cargo pants, which was covered with multiple roomy pockets. Then, there were a few who gave a makeover to the safari suit by deconstructing original pieces into hybrid dresses.
Continuing to make an appearance, the cropped trend is as inevitable to summer as fur is to winter. But the sporty cropped top has been replaced by the shorter bandeau. They were seen all over the catwalks, whether they were over clothes, under layers or on their own. Bandeaus that were worn underneath for a subtle hint of skin were worn with overalls with plunging necklines, menswear-inspired suits, leather jackets and sheer tops. The selection varied in terms of cuts, shapes and volume through the basic, minimalist ones on display to the feminine ones with bows and weightless frills to the more risqué interpretations that were decorated in sparkling sequin and zippers. Lace, leather, denim, silk, and neoprene – any fabric in-between can embrace this trend according to the shape.
A viable success for S/S’14, culottes are back for a second outing as London and New York nod to the relaxed and comfort-driven bottom wear for the upcoming summer. What differed for this year was that the versions seen this time had a definite inclination towards the vintage high-waisted trend. While some presented scrunched and bow waist styles, others went for high-waist flares and the rest, showcased loose fit swinging culottes that were outrageously oversized and basketball shorts loose. Some designers explored the possibilities of leather and suede for the laid-back bottoms, whereas others stuck to lightweight fluid fabrics that befit the construction. The styles stuck to a palette of lighter shades like powder blue, beige, white and rose pink.
Overlays have long been used as sheer fabrics are placed on opaque ones to create layers that differ in colour, texture and ornamentation but the modern overlay exists merely to create new dimensions. While a few designers still revisited the traditional sheer overlay with organza and mesh, others used printed fabrics or fabrics with different textures and attached it to one shoulder, so the fabric underneath is visible from the other side. Overlays were not just used on dresses that differed in length but also on straight-fit and wide-legged pants which were visible through side slits. This trend reaffirms the asymmetric stride of the season and takes on an edgier spin towards panelling.
The two fashion capitals, unanimously, voted for stripes as the print of the season. They were set widely on maxi dresses, on casually tailored outerwear, fitted midi-length dresses, asymmetric skirts and as trims, like pockets, on the rest of the silhouettes. While Resort ’15 collections witnessed traces of putting together horizontal stripes for the top and vertical stripes on the bottomwear, together, this season translated this idea on standalone separates. Designers offered collage-inspired silhouettes where different asymmetric panels, varying in the thickness and thinness of stripes were put together. Resembling patchwork, the final garments were mostly coloured in monochrome accents, except for a few exceptions who threw in metallic stripes.
The graphic combination of black and white, which peaked last season, still attracted a big following. Collections were swamped with geometric shapes like stripes, checks, beehive, etc. along with separates covered floral or abstract patterns. The two shades were used to bring out minimalistic contrast on dresses, cots, jumpsuits, and skirts through panelling on collars, sleeves, cuffs, belts and plackets. White sheer fabrics like organza and chalk white lace was used on black surfaces, whereas, black beads, sequin, pleats and frills came forth on white bases. This trend took a subtle direction this season as it was mirrored through layering, details and 3D ornamentation.