Power Dressing, as the world knows it, has made suits a ‘must have’ for all working and even non-working women. And owing to many designers catering to the needs of ‘power dressers’ with multi-faceted designs, the recently concluded Fall 2016 runways witnessed the reign of the suits which appeared in a staggering number of collections and every version attained popularity with its targeted segment. Noticeably trickling-down from the runways to the mainstream, this trend has grabbed the eyes of the exporters, and experimentations to adopt the trend are on, though mostly at a very nascent stage. With growing inclination of women towards androgynous fashion, the simple construction and powerful silhouette make suits a favourite style of the season…
Occasion suits might just be the biggest new thing in fashion, as designers delivered what’s been till today an office or event staple in bright patterns, fresh fabrications, and even deconstructed, giving us suits to wear just about anywhere we want to. This year the pantsuit is having a major comeback, courtesy all the designers experimenting with ’70s inspired suits with high waist wide legged pants and broad shoulder blazers, or in black tuxedos.
Women’s suits have become for some time now an object of prime necessity in the wardrobe of a business lady. However, lately, thanks to an enormous diversity of designs and styles, suits have begun to be widely used not only in the business arena, but also in casualwear. In general parlance suits imply a lean, professional image for the ladies. But now the concept has evolved considerably to include walking shorts or legging like pants and culottes matched with blazers, cropped jackets and even vests. For the upcoming Fall season, adding to the freshness: plenty of surface interest were seen via lightweight pinstripes, seersucker and blurred plaids. Nandini Pal, Designer, Bershka, ITX Trading SA, INDITEX adds, “While in cotton and linen, the silhouette looks very casual, but the same silhouette when rendered in menswear fabrics, like wool blends, knitted fleece and jacquard, bring out a very sharp and edgy side.”
A suits novelty stands in the variety of cuts, designs, colours and the mix of styles that fashion allows today. From ’70s pantsuits, to tuxedo inspired with V-plunging necklines and no shirts underneath (massive this season), to ’60s printed pantsuits (think plaid for example), to skinny cut pantsuits, or boyfriend styles. High waist pantsuits are mandatory, to avoid that kitsch 2000s low rise pant cut. The blazer can be either hip-length, longer or shorter, with long or short collar, pockets or not, oversized or slim cut.
Forget the shoulder pads, the bad tailoring, and the corporate executive stiffness that comes along with the idea of the trouser suit. It’s broken out of the cubicle and headed to the runways in a fashion avatar; as seen in cropped, kicky flares at Calvin Klein, slinky and seventies at Christopher Kane, or wide-legged sleek stripes at Chanel. From an eye-popping fuchsia ensemble to a futuristic silk lamé pant and a wool blazer with cut-out shoulders, there is so much to choose from.
With Cropped Pants
Capri pants are not new in the fashion world and for Fall 2016 these are one of the main trends. The effect of “cropped pants” can be obtained through various ways – either with a special cut or even by ordinary tucking up of the pants. The fabulous combination of cropped pant-suits were seen at Akris, 1205, Norma Kamali, Theory, Zoe Jordan, Anthony Thomas, Antonio Marras, Diane von Furstenberg, Dolce & Gabbana, and Fendi.
Sleeveless
The lack of sleeves covers virtually all types of clothing this season including suits. Jean Pierre Braganza, Diane von Furstenberg, Akris, Creatures of Comfort, Kimora Lee, 1205 Lanvin, Costume National presented us sleeveless jackets and blazers. KK Sadh, MD, Indira Exports, discussing about sleeveless suits said, “Last two seasons saw experimentation with suit sleeves be it kimono style, cut sleeves or long sleeves. But this season is seen eliminating the sleeves completely and becoming a new suit style.”
The Creative Cut
Modern designers cannot be blamed for lack of creativity and artistic advent. They have passed those times when from season to season the outfits were not changing their designs and styles. But not anymore, Aganovich proposed blazers hand over hand, Haider Ackermann, Jacquemus, Chalayan, Gabriele Colangelo and Jean Pierre Braganza chose asymmetrical shapes and patterns; whereas Maison Rabih Kayrouz was seen fit to decorate blazers with peplum.
Classic Style
The classic is always appreciated. The severe cut, restricted lines, traditional masculine silhouettes, all of which talk of an impeccable taste. Aditya Daga, Director, Jineshwar Exim Pvt. Ltd. agreed that classic style suits are suitable for any situation and to diversify the look, one can “play” with length or colours of pants. Versace presented a beige and dark green suit; Brandon Maxwell, Jill Stuart, Marissa Webb, Antonio Berardi, Altuzarra, Paul Smith, Bouchra Jarrar with traditional achromatic; Daks, Ralph Lauren, Christian Dior, Hermes, Barbara Casasola, Boss, Banana Republic, Alexandre Plokhov, 6397, in addition to achromatic, visibly shortened the length of trousers; Joseph, Barbara Casasola, Joseph, Paul Smith opted for shades of beige and yellow and stormy sea hue.
Sports Inspired
As we know, designers often promote sports and healthy lifestyle and Fall 2016 is no exception. Lacoste, Tommy Hilfiger, John Galliano, Chloe, Brunello Cucinelli, Juicy Couture launched a series of suits that absolutely surprisingly combines the sport and casual styles. Very often suits are seen dynamic and in vivid colours, although the black colour palette was also available. Instead sport suits are specially designed for women who are always on the move. These suits are distinguished by practicality; they do not limit movement and at the same time, unlike conventional sport suits, project tonnes of style and fashion. Lively and charming, sport suits with metallic shine were proposed by designers Ralph Lauren and Barbara Bui, while wearing suits from Akris and Dsquared2, one could even run or play basketball.
The Decorative Suit
Designers used bold asymmetric cuts, unusual colours, atypical fabrics and certainly striking decorative elements. This season hot brands like Tod’s, Loewe, Les Copains, Edun, Marc Jacobs, Creatures of the Wind widely used applications and embroidery, fringes, decorative seams and buttons, metal gasket, bows and other modes of fabrics decoration. Ajay Seth, CEO, A & M International avers, “Looking at the growing demand of embroidery and patchwork on suits, many distinct dimensions are being provided to these styles.”
