For retailers it’s been a monumental fashion week for one reason in particular, it marked the first time ever Fall 2016 buy-it-now collections from the likes of Ralph Lauren, Thakoon, Tom Ford and Tommy Hilfiger that ran alongside traditional Spring 2017 collections, which meant that themes and products are crossing seasonal boundaries now more than ever. Requiring retailers to pay even closer attention to fabric weight, palette and timing than ever before, these top 5 trends are Spring 2017’s key pieces from New York and London…
The classic white shirt is having a ‘moment’ right now. Interesting waistlines and unexpected hemlines added that edge to simple white shirtdresses, which looked perfect for workwear. It reaffirms the current androgynous trend and appreciation for a relaxed silhouette. Prabal Gurung and 3.1 Phillip Lim included them in their collections – Gurung’s was a midi-length feminine version with slits, Lim went for boxy clean lines. DKNY played with asymmetry by keeping a longer trail at the back and Rag & Bone styled his with pants underneath. The common details in all the collections were that they were oversized, longline, buttoned-up and full-sleeved.
The traditional shirt underwent major deconstructive surgery, this season. Monse was among the first to try draping and tailoring a men’s shirt in different shapes, they mixed fabrics and continued to play with off-the-shoulder styles and oversize sleeves. Alexander Wang added cropped several styles, making for a boxier shape, which was complemented by straps double wrapped around the models’ bare midriffs. Self-portrait’s version included cut-out sleeves on both slides and embellishment, whereas, Tanya Taylor used a striped shirt with kimono-inspired sleeves and a relaxed fit. Hood by Air sent shirts still in original plastic packaging – down the runway tucked under a hoodie-sport coat hybrid.
This season isn’t about simple off-the-shoulder tops and dresses, but it is about the one-shoulder ones. Fashion’s obsession with shoulders rages on, manifesting itself in many collections across both the fashion capitals. Prabal Gurung styled his billowy knit sweater by pulling it down from one sleeve, creating excessively longer ones. His styles looked casual and cozy for autumn weather. Tome also played with exaggerated sleeves, a shoulder exposed and frills on the top as Rodarte introduced the trend to his eveningwear piece where a black cocktail dress boasted of one-shoulder strap hanging. There were others who used strategically placed cut-outs for maximum impact like CG did with their sheer sleeves.
The trench coat is undoubtedly a classic; everyone in fashion knows that the trench coat is a wardrobe staple. This season, slouchy fabrics, big buckles, and extended silhouettes took the run-off-the-mill trench coat from ordinary to major. Creatures of the Wind style presented theirs with flap pockets on top and belted it over a tracksuit for an athleisure look and Tibi styled theirs over a sunny yellow dress, keeping it unbuttoned. Though it was Dion Lee who drew all the focus to the trench coat with the models wearing no top and only slouchy pants underneath, they came with big belts and oversized pockets.
This trend is still going strong and got the full kitsch treatment at Altuzarra, covered in Fifties cherries and embroidered pineapples. Jonathan Saunders also drew on their refreshing powers for his first collection for DVF. Now there are ruffled sweaters, long sleeve dresses and shirts. Rosie Assoulin created tiers of ruffles on tops, a flounce-trimmed wrap skirt was found at Altuzarra, while a frill edge, jogging bottomwear looked perfect on the 3.1 Phillip Lim runways. Erdem’s divinely beautiful show displayed a mixture of a bucket hat and classic straw hat with brims which had a gentle frill effects as Burberry’s first see-now, buy-now collection included high-collared ruffled shirts.