Spring/Summer 2015 witnessed the ’70s decade which involved luxe eveningwear, tailored work wear and subtle hints of the styles influenced by the time period – a bit of suede, Op art prints, higher necks and a slight flaring. There was visible flare and fluting of trousers, dramatically done in the case of jumpsuits, high-necked tees, crochet knits and suede outerwear, the references were all there. However, instead of traditional ’70s looks, designers indulged in an essence of the decade in cuts, garments, colours or prints. In addition to faux fur, disco luxe, glam rock, psychedelic prints, sequin and crochet; ’60s shift shapes, boxy tops, large patch pockets; ’40s cape sleeves, bib fronted dresses; ’50s twinsets and duchesse pantsuits. There was also a very strong influence of sports luxe from the ’90s – think bomber jackets, tube socks, and spaghetti straps, knitwear panelled with sheer fabrics, camisole dresses and sneakers.
More hints of the decade were present – from trousers that were introduced with extra flare to high- necked peasant dresses and tops to tomboyish dungarees, styled with scarves and vintage retro shades. Sheer wasn’t as plain and literal as light fabrics were adorned with appliqués and 3D florals, biker jackets showed off brighter shades and A-line culottes were seen everywhere. Paris supported the ’70s too, it offered patchworked suede, striped knit cardigans, airy cotton dresses, shiny disco wear on one end and fringed leather bags, crochet, bohemian maxi dresses on the other.
Collectively, the cities gave a choice between disco and Woodstock bohemia. While London and New York embraced monochrome and subtlety, Milan and Paris went for big bold prints and colour blocking, which has been touted as the comeback trend of the season. FFT rounds up a few of the most prominent trends that will define the summer of 2015…
The striking combination of black and white has enveloped collections, this time too as there were geometric shapes like stripes, checks, polka dots, etc. along with separates covered in floral or abstract patterns with a play of sheer fabrics and 3D value addition.
The poster paint shades of truest red, sunshine yellow, striking oranges and tangerines, high energy blues, olive, khaki and grassy greens felt positively raucous compared to the mute pastels of the past summer season.
The Seventies Show
The flowers, the flares, the fringing! S/S ’15 is going to be one big ’70s time warp – from Tommy Hilfiger’s throwback fashion festival to Louis Vuitton’s ode to velvet. An era that’s consistent in inspiring modern fashion, the key looks included blouses beneath tank tops and striped knit cardigans, the relaxed peasant vibes and pretty cotton dresses, the flared trousers and contrast piping, patchworked suede, disco-friendly dresses, neck scarves and glittered platforms. Then there were designers who went full-pelt with fringing on dresses, tops, skirts, tan leather bags, button-front denim midi skirts, crochet, bell bottoms, aviators and puff sleeves. Designers picked between the two faces of the decade – disco glamour or Woodstock bohemian.
Commercially, Japanese references are well-timed, riding on the back of Spring 2014’s super-success; the kimono. Fashion houses, again, looked to the east for spring inspiration as Japanese dressing makes a solid appearance on the runways with kimono-style wraps, billowing sleeves and obi belts. A lax robe-like silhouette prevailed at some, while traditional obi sashes were translated to modern ensembles at others. There was a sensual side with a silk shirtwaist dress with floral patterns and gold trims indicative of a lux oriental temptress, billowing floral print kimono jacket, pairing of asymmetric cuts and orchid blooms, appliqué cherry blossom branches reaching over the shoulders of dresses, other prints and symbols directly referencing Japan and judo tied-waist trousers.
Décolletage baring is in trend. Whether you go delicate and girly or sleek and powerful, this is the zone to buff-up over winter before the big reveal next spring. Bandeau tops were seen all over the catwalks whether they were over clothes, under layers or on their own. Bandeaux that were worn underneath for a subtle hint of skin were worn with overalls with plunging necklines, menswear-inspired suits, leather jackets and sheer tops. The ones on display were minimalist or feminine ones with bows and weightless frills to the more risqué interpretations that were decorated in sparkling sequin and zippers. While bandeau replaced the cropped top for the midriff bearing aficionados, the bandeau dress was sure to follow as off-shoulders were a popular trend too.
Leap of Denim
A surprise addition, all the designers were keen to put their own stamp on everyman’s favourite fabric this season – denim. Most interesting is who chooses to use the fabric – the uber luxe houses like Gucci, Fendi, Bottega Veneta and Dolce & Gabbana. The denim jacket was back- cropped and buttoned, head to toe looks were present – super casual with denim polo tee, draw-waisted jeans and Mandarin collared jackets, raw edged denim dresses were sequinned and embellished, lighter and looser versions in oversized duster coats, swinging culottes, cutwork mini-dresses, statement-stitch tunics, kick-pleated midi-skirts. In all, this was about using denim where it isn’t expected, as casualwear infiltrates all aspects of modern life.
On a Slant
While high octane glamour certainly took a backseat for Spring 2015, complicated forms refused to follow suit. Instead, designers worked with casualness and asserted their cutting skills in mind-boggling asymmetry which created a dishevelled air at every collection. There were cami dresses which hung suggestively from the body, as well as lopsided cardigans – one side long; flawless fusion of trench coats with silk dresses and alternating patterns and bias cut dresses that contradicted the precise luxury from which they stem, one-shoulder garments and spliced fabrics. This theme embraces peplums, to create yet more of that boudoir nonchalance by creating them from layers of petal-like silks, adorning trapeze shaped tops and diaphanous suiting and trimming the silk slips.
An overlay has traditionally been used with sheer fabrics being placed on opaque ones to create layers that differ in shade, texture and ornamentation but the modern overlay stands out by creating new dimensions. While a few designers still revisited the traditional sheer overlay with organza and mesh, others used printed fabrics or fabrics with different textures and attached it to one shoulder, so the fabric visibility of the other fabric is increased. Overlays were not just used on dresses that differed in length but also on straight-fit and wide-legged pants which were visible through exaggerated side slits. This trend reaffirms the asymmetric stride of the season and takes on an edgier spin towards panelling.