It’s that time of the year again when we study the fabrics that will shape the collections of the coming season and bring to life the trends. The key fabrics can be summarized in these three themes: rudimentary refinement – which includes dry textures, natural/artificial alliances, exceptional simplicity, lively colour, powerful nature; gently irreverent – subtle imperfections, implacable fineness, subversive freshness, graphic upsets; and experimental romanticism – artificial transparency, open structures, scientific spirit, boosted & piques. For an insight into the details of the fabrics for S/S ’17, go through our curetted report of different category of products…
For summer coats, fabrics with rich texture and enhanced touch will be in trend. They would include a modified nature, plastic raffia with unusual handles, design primitives like tribal tweed, dishevelled fringes and spongy cottons. Strings and cords with a supple heaviness, graphic weave as if seen through a magnifying glass, thick yet airy gauzes. Blousons and jackets would be adapted in rubber-like and soft faux leathers, fun assemblages of net over plastic, double and bonded knits, super stretch for blousons and jackets with athleisure accents. Pants will exude more lightness and cool suppleness but with impeccable hold, ultra-matte or glazed sheens. Dresses will use ultra-matte crepes, tactile surfaces with subtly grained texture, incredible stretch. For artificial gleam, there will be sporty synthetic satins, everyday stretch silks.
Tops and blouses will include naturally airy fabrics with impalpable matt silks in viscose or synthetics with a smooth fluid handle, soft languid cottony voiles, with softly washed finishing, featherweight silks enlivened with a touch of air. Fantasy voiles will include cotton or cotton/linen transparency delicately enlivened with cut-yarns, discreetly figured, stippled with little dobbies like men’s shirting. Everyday lace will be effervescent and fine like Chantilly, or very open like coloured voiles. The decoration will consist of bitter sweet romanticism themes with climbing or bouquet-style thorny roses, sticky sweet colour-ways and the same in darker, negative-style versions on sombre backgrounds. Inhabited jungles with vegetation, pervasive foliage where birds of paradise and exotic animals hide, disturbing and carnivorous flowers. In addition to cartoon-type treatments, handmade gouache or badly inked designs, anything but photographic are also big for the season.
The designs will include a little dose of femininity, which will be featherweights, suppler behaviour, and flowering pinks. End-and-ends, chambrays, mini-stripes, familiar menswear visuals shift onto translucent or ultra-light grounds. Jacquards, cut-yarns, dobbies finely interfering with stripes with a little check; Linen blends or fine cotton slubs, highly controlled imperfections, dry handles are very chic or casual, natural asperities livening up patterns and semi plains. Then came muted checks – handkerchief and tiny checks with faded contrast, colour-ways hinting of a past liveliness or freshness. More than perfect ultra-homogeneous surfaces impeccably smooth on flawless satin, crisp or barely washed finishing, implacable simplicity, decisive lines, very graphically wide and contrasting stripes. Indigo suppleness is all about less weight, cotton or linen blended with Lyocell or modal playing on transparency.
Evening wear ensembles will revolve around inhabited transparency with translucent roundness, spectacular gauzes, sublimely imperfect organza infiltrated with dry slubs. Intermittent, wholly fine cut-yarns play on transparency. Finely transparent layers, volume-boosting imprisoned yarns reminiscent of precious quilting, 3D mesh and translucent spacers, over-embroidered or adorned with refined applications. Artificial lights like voiles and mousse lines will be covered with plastic reflections, pale metallics laminated on silkies, embroideries or lace, all-over iridescent sequin glints. Jacquards enhanced with cellophane or grating yarns, florals with an artificial look thanks to colourful, slightly chemical vibrations. Taffetas and satin duchesse with supple, almost casual behaviour… More simple designs will include large, irregular and multi-coloured stripes. Matt, glossy, transparent and opaque, pleated, or textured stripes, stripes detailed in the lace patterns.
Performance fabrics include cotton aspects and very discreetly irregular-yarn effects for synthetics – ultra-matte, talc-like handles. Truly augmented cottons, poplin-like, in 3-layer laminates with chambray visuals, end-and-ends or cottons, with breathable/waterproof or bonded membranes on contrasting mesh will be visibly present. Prints will be striking and contrasting, two or three-toned triangles and interlaced designs, playful geometries, enlarged ginghams and yarn-dyed checkerboards. Cutting-edge functionalities, at the very least breathable/waterproof and wind stopping are going to be popular. Sheathing knits – from cycling to athleisure will comprise of a reinforced, breathable elasticity in both knits and woven garments, and fast-dry knits in spruce fantasies. Swimwear is all about innovative nets and laces, wavy patterns and frills, ennobled, embroidered, laser cut-outs with dark jungle and mysterious floral prints.