Over the last few years, the accessories segment of scarves, stoles and shawls have been experiencing a boom with summer and winter styles partly covering each other, to become a ‘must have’ for the entire year. Re-named as the springtime scarves, these fashionable commodities with its various versions are single-handedly taking down other accessories to become the centre of attention. With retailers having to stock excess inventory owing to overlapping seasons, scarves are the safest options, as unlike garments, they do not change in every two weeks and are not necessarily season-restricted. Looking at this growing market, Team AO tries to find out the variety this segment has on offer and how Indian players are catering to buyer demands…
Tied turtleneck-style, loosely knotted like ascots, or wrapped around wrists and ankles, colourful silk scarves are on the watch to become the next big trend. If you’re a fashion fanatic who likes to be the first to adopt a look, this is very exciting news. Once seen only as the province of the elderly, scarves are now shifting the attention from belts, earrings and neckpieces to themselves. Appreciated for changing its presentation as a style endeavour from time to time; scarves have emerged as a perfect amalgamation of simplicity and elegance. So unassuming, yet so chic and effortless, scarves are now embracing the fashion circle with its various varieties which can be seen taking rounds on the runways as well as the street style.
Printed and Embroidered Scarves
Scarf trend 2015 is going in for printed as well as embroidered scarves. Printed and embroidered materials are used with silk, leather and wool, etc. to create unique effects. Square and triangular scarves are the best cuts to be used in this context. Using fabric choices like silk, rayon and viscose also gives greater selection options of playing around with different techniques to adorn the scarf with appropriate value addition. Colourful hand embroideries, aari and dori work, knotting and a mix of screen print and embroidery are some ways scarves are undergoing a revamp. Manipulated in numerous techniques like phulkari, aari and thread embroidery and incorporated with prints, patchwork, and beading, scarves are trying to emerge as statement pieces.
Skinny Scarves
Staying true to the sensibilities of the 70s, a skinnier version of the scarves has started to gain popularity amongst the consumers. Whether worn with a silky button down shirt, a simple T-shirt, or a cocktail dress, the skinny scarf is pretty much the coolest and most versatile thing one can add to their wardrobe this spring. A long and thin scarf with a width of almost 3-4 inches is now being seen manipulated in metallic and knitted versions. This barely there, scarf has an identity of its own. In the hierarchy of shapes the Saint Laurent slim and diagonally cut scarf is the ‘L’ for learner version. Whereas, at Hermes, one could spot a great big sweep of a scarves in heavy twill jacquard silk that begs to be tied around one’s neck while the lengths are left to fly in the wind. Trussadi showcased his version of strip scarf, which seemed more like a 2-inch fabric piece wrapped around to create a neck-lace effect. It was a similar affair over at Tommy Hilfiger too, while Tom Ford employed black silk scarves as chokers.
Cross-body Scarves
Another version of the scarf was to take a sweep from the shoulder of one end to the waist of another side. Dubbed as the cross-body scarves, these fabric pieces were mostly prevalent in the last Fall collections and are said to be ready for another comeback in the coming Fall as well. In vibrant colours and graphics worn on the models shoulders or across the body, the stole is the key garment on the Thakoon, 3.1 Phillip Lim, Creatures of the Wind and Jason Wu runways.
Digital Printed Scarves
Scarf prints are a remix of paisleys, hatch marks and geometric forms that may come arranged in patchworks. And with growing need of innovative prints, digital prints have become a much popular platform to be exploited. Creating water colour and tie & dye effect with printing, digital printing is the new favourite with designers and customers. As in Chanel’s runways appearances, bright contrast scarves with water colour fusion are a rage. Prints like reminiscent of the old chain links, baroque inspired and grouped florals are some varieties which are doing really well presently and were spotted on the runways on S/S 2015 as well.
THE EXPORTER’S TAKE…
ISHANT SADH, CEO – SCARVES, S.K. DYEING & PRINTING WORKS
Pastels are the colours of this season for the US and European markets. It was in the trends since the last summers, 80% is pastels and 20% is the medium bright. The fabrics we are using are mostly modals, viscose cotton, polyesters, silk, and all the blends like, silk-viscose, silk-linen, etc. We are also using a lot of tassels in our stoles and scarves. Buyers are demanding for products which are less expensive but have value addition, therefore our range of scarves are ombre dyed or marble dyed and are finished with decorative tassels on the edges. Tassels are playing role of a substitute for prints and beading and other value adds. Buyers of France, Germany and also Spain, like fringes as a surface decoration, US and Canada are simpler; it depends on the clients also. But we are also into scarves in self-fabric.
RACHNA BAWA, DIRECTOR, ANAYA
In India, the accessories market has really grown, while internationally, an outfit is incomplete without a scarf, stole, shawl or belt. Prints including florals and polka dots (in colours such as black, white, and grey with an occasional splash of red) are also hot selling items for the exporters and they are doing a lot of developments in this area as well. In flowers, bigger motifs are in and there is a lot of importance being given to colours – what is put and where it is placed. The standard sizes are 28” x 80” and 22” x 80” and we have not seen too many demands for change in sizes. As we are working with the high-market, we prefer pure fabrics and work mostly with silk. However, at times we also use poly-georgette and poly-chiffon for clients who are looking at lower prices.
MONICA TIWARI, DIRECTOR, APRIL SOURCING
Working simultaneously on different seasons for different clients, this year the ‘hot’ colours that are doing well for them include inky blue, purple, black, silver, a bit of red and a lot of mustard. Embellishments are being given a breath of fresh air, and from the not so far back ornately ethnic looks, they are beginning to get more modern. There are sequins, mirror work, metal plates, etc. However, it is not in the traditional way; mirrors are being used in different ways as well as there is a demand for innovative 1”x1” square sequins. It is more geometrical and abstract, having a very ‘futuristic’ feel.
VIKALP SINGH, DIRECTOR, BRIGHT STAR
We develop our own designs and use traditional prints such as paisleys, flowers, squares, lines, checks, etc. which never actually go out of fashion, in a new way with slight variations. Right now, we are seeing a huge demand for boiled woollen scarves. Woollen scarves, when boiled, result in a crinkled effect that produces a ‘merging effect’ as, after boiling, the prints get blurred due to the crinkling.
