The basic foundation of a garment is known to be laid by the fabric used, but the details are what make it stand out in exceptional ways. The front of the garment has always been regarded as the main area of experimentation, owing to which the back has ended up getting sidelined most of the time, expecting the on and off variation of the backless concept. However, the Resort 2016 and ongoing S/S ’16 collections have showcased styles where the back adornments took the centre-stage. From subtle and chic elements to over-the-top ones, most designers swore by elegant back detailing with unexpected twist. Taking the cue from the runways, some exporters have induced back detailing in their blouses and dresses with variation coming through by simple lace, pleats and knots. With S/S ’16 women’s wear collections validating the back detailing as a powerful trend, we are soon to witness these details in full-bloom in the retail section as well…
With warmer weather on the horizon and the shedding of layers that comes with the onset of spring, there is an increased likelihood of showing more skin. A handful of spring dresses, blouses and tunics have caught the eye of the critics, and each share interesting back design details in their trend listings. Aesthetically speaking, the back of a garment is often overlooked, but not this season. Cape backs abound on dresses, jackets, blouses, even parkas, cut-outs on peplum tops and straight fit dresses, panelling on dresses and open backs in gowns are few of the numerous examples witnessed on the runways.
Going in contrast with the minimal and clean-cut lines of this season’s silhouettes, back detailing are anything but simple. Designers adorned the back with distinctive and scintillating turns and twists that have made the backs the most talked about detailing of the season. While Edun stuck to the popular criss-cross element, Narciso Rodriguez went a step further by adding a cape slit on top of that. Unexpected bows showed up at Lanvin and No. 21 that immediately transformed the look from being sultry to sociable. Joseph, in the quest of creating something different from the ordinary, simply added thin strings to the archetypical back accentuating the spaghetti striped dress. It came as no surprise when Rosie Assoulin presented her exaggerated version in the form of several cut-outs to a white top that beautifully illustrated the petals of a blooming flower.
Doing it in subtle and unexpected ways, bare backs have somehow taken over the other value additions this season. Surface ornamentation took a backseat and never seen before back details on regular silhouettes became the most preferred. One way that trend watchers love this interesting back detail, is through cut-outs, which not only give the basic silhouette a cool and edgy factor but also carries forward the cut-out trend from the last few seasons. The cut-outs on the back of N°21gives the flowy maxi dress some added interest and edge, without being over the top. Talking about cutout back designs on blouses and dresses, Jitendra Kumar, Director, Hari Om Laser said, “We used to do laser cutting on the front panels earlier, now we have started getting enquiries for laser cutting on back panels as well.”
Back-only details are also becoming a favourite amongst designers as they emphasize the wearer’s shoulders and posterior. Another way that designers are achieving back details in their collections is through cape backs. Designers like Tibi and Public School are creating cape inspired back with a slit or two. The round pattern of the cape makes the silhouette conservative and the slit on the back creates peek-a-boo effect with movement. It doesn’t get more elegant than this, finished with scalloped, peep-back hems. An exporter of readymade garments, Shivaka International is developing garments with knotted backs. The fabric strips are knotted in variety of knotting and tying styles like, the celtic knot, the panel knot and macramé cerry and shell knots. And some styles have a bow knot created through strings or fabric pieces, he shares.
Another detail making rounds is the criss-cross design, made by putting fabric panels together. Cross-back silhouettes noticed mostly in the collections of Edun and Lanvin, hinted upon use of knotting, criss-crossing and overlapping on the summer piece. Another way of creating an adorned back is by addition of flowery fabrics. Be it lace, crochet, or any other sheer fabric, another fabric addition on the back is able to give an additional edge to the normal base. In case of back detailing, lace is not only becoming an important value adding element in form of a cut-out fabric, but it is also adding value and chic elements to the garments by being incorporated with different fabrics.
The soft and sophisticated lace can be used with leather in panels, jersey with entire back of crochet and sheer layering with opaque front, just a few examples of the never-ending possibilities. Back details are popping up everywhere. With lattice braiding or elongating ribbon designs, ladder inspired hand cut bohemian trend to a crochet-back tank, back detailing is a perfect complement to a minimal look. Dolly Sidhwani, Owner, Nobel Faith Clothing, discussing about their collection, said, “We are into a lot of appliqué – appliqué with embroidery, appliqué with embellishment and many other variants. For this season, we are putting lace appliqué on the back of tank tops.”
Call it a trickle-down sparkling Gatsby effect, as popping tasselled trims, fringes of all sorts like leather fringe, silky strings or tassels, are increasingly being used to decorate the boxy shifts, flared blouses or even a normal T-shirt. Rahul Sadh, CEO, The Design Sangrah, informing about their inclusion of back detailing in their collections said, “We are incorporating fringes as a contrast element to our rather plain T-shirts. We are playing with contrast colours and matching tonal colours as well, which creates a different look.” Stated as one of the most beautiful interpretation for a back adornment, back detailing with fringes is reinventing back designs in a more interesting and innovative manner.
