In the constantly evolving global landscape of fibre production, the numbers paint a compelling picture of both progress and challenges that lie ahead. In 2022, the world witnessed a remarkable uptick, with fibre production soaring to a historic high of 116 million tonnes, setting a promising trajectory for future growth. Projections shared by Textile Exchange indicate a further surge to 147 million tonnes by 2030 if current trends persist, underscoring the gigantic scale of opportunities awaiting businesses in this sector.

Amidst this surge, sustainability has emerged as a critical focal point. Encouragingly, the percentage of natural fibres cultivated through sustainable programs witnessed a modest yet significant uptick with cotton and wool seeing increments from 25 per cent to 27 per cent and from 3 per cent to 4.3 per cent respectively, signalling a growing commitment towards eco-conscious practices within the industry.

However, the rise of virgin fossil-based synthetic fibres, particularly polyester, presents a dual narrative. While polyester maintains its market dominance, constituting 54 per cent of global production, the rise from 63 million tonnes to 67 million tonnes in 2022 highlights the continued dependence on non-renewable resources. This amplifies the urgency to realign strategies towards more sustainable alternatives.

Another concerning trend emerges with the decline in the combined share of recycled fibres, dipping from 8.5 per cent to 7.9 per cent in 2022. Particularly alarming is the slump in recycled polyester, predominantly sourced from plastic bottles, dropping from 15 per cent to 14 per cent. The underlying factors, including heightened competition for PET bottles and logistical hurdles in textile-to-textile recycling, demand proactive intervention to reverse this trend.

These findings serve as a wake-up call for industry stakeholders to expedite the transition towards preferred fibre sources. It necessitates a concerted effort to drive away from virgin fossil-based materials and towards innovative solutions that decouple value creation from resource extraction. Now more than ever, it is vital for businesses to double down on sustainability initiatives by investing in technologies and practices that align with circular economy principles.

In its latest ‘Materials Market’ report, Textile Exchange highlights the key global market trends with an aim to aid the industry in achieving a 45 per cent reduction in greenhouse gas emissions that come from producing fibres and raw materials by 2030. We share a diagnosis below:

THE GLOBAL FIBRE MARKET

Regrettably, the recent trajectory of recycled fibres spikes concern. Despite years of growth, the combined share of recycled fibres experienced a slight decline from 8.5 per cent to 7.9 per cent in 2022. This downturn is aggravated by the ascendance of fossil-based polyester, driven by lower prices compared to its recycled counterpart. Shockingly, less than 1 per cent of the global fibre market originated from pre- and post-consumer recycled textiles in 2022, signalling a stark gap between ambition and reality.

COTTON, POLYESTER AND POLYAMIDE

Cotton, a cornerstone of the industry, presents a mixed narrative. While the proportion of sustainable cotton under recognised programs rebounded to 27 per cent in 2021-22, accelerating towards the Sustainable Cotton Challenge’s 50 per cent market share target by 2025 demands unprecedented commitment and urgency. The industry’s attention must pivot towards amplifying both the scale and impact of sustainability initiatives, fostering continuous improvement in environmental and social outcomes.

Even though polyamide represents a smaller segment, it offers significant potential for environmental gains if producers embrace recycled and bio-based alternatives. Yet, technical challenges and price differentials hinder transition, with recycled polyamide commanding a mere 2 per cent market share. Similarly, bio-based polyamide struggles to gain traction, hampered by pricing, availability and sustainability concerns.

MAN-MADE CELLULOSICS

Man-made cellulosic fibres (MMCFs) emerge as a notable contender, showcasing an uptick from 7.2 million tonnes in 2021 to 7.3 million tonnes in 2022. MMCFs certified by Forest Stewardship Council (FSC) and/or Programme for the Endorsement of Forest Certification (PEFC) accounted for a substantial 60 per cent – 65 per cent market share, albeit against the backdrop of declining global forest area certification. The ban on ‘conflict timber’ from certain regions further highlights the imperative for sustainable sourcing practices within the MMCF industry.

Amidst obstacles, the rise of recycled MMCFs presents a hopeful path, one that is primed for substantial growth driven by continuous research efforts, development endeavours and the implementation of industry benchmarks across crucial phases of the supply chain.

WOOL

Wool, a timeless staple of the fashion and textile world, maintains its presence with global production hovering around one million tonnes in 2022. However, a notable shift towards responsible production practices is evident, with the market share of wool adhering to standards such as Responsible Wool Standard (RWS) and others rising from 3 per cent to 4.3 per cent. This transition towards criteria that embraces animal welfare and sustainable land use holds the promise of positive environmental and social impacts. Additionally, a growing adoption of recycled wool within the industry underscores a burgeoning commitment towards circularity.

MOHAIR AND ALPACA FIBRES

Mohair and alpaca fibres, though less commonly known, have managed to carve their niche with dedicated standards such as the Responsible Mohair Standard (RMS) and Responsible Alpaca Standard (RAS) gaining traction. The alignment of a significant portion of production with these standards not only mirrors the industry’s dedication to animal welfare and responsible land use but also underscores the evolving landscape of ethical sourcing.

CASHMERE AND DOWN

Cashmere, renowned for its luxury and softness, undergoes a notable transformation with the combined market share of various cashmere programs doubling from 17 per cent to 35 per cent, including initiatives like the Good Cashmere Standard® and Responsible Nomads. The industry demonstrates a concerted effort towards promoting sustainability and ethical production practices.

Even down, with its origins deeply rooted in animal sourcing, shows signs of progress. The adoption of standards such as Responsible Down Standard (RdS) and downpass, despite facing challenges, exemplifies a commitment towards mitigating risks along the supply chain and ensuring animal welfare.

Global down production volume was estimated at around 0.60 million tonnes in 2022. The market share of the Responsible down Standard (RdS) slightly increased by 3.2 per cent of the total down market in 2022.

OTHER FIBRES

Beyond traditional fibres, the industry is also embracing innovation with materials ranging from hemp to elastane gaining prominence. Innovations such as Pineapple Leaf Fibres(PALF) and fibres derived from captured CO2 herald a new era of sustainable and resource-efficient textiles, reflecting a collective commitment towards a more resilient and responsible future.

THE GLOBAL NON-FIBROUS MATERIALS MARKET

In the dynamic domain of non-fibrous materials, the global market showcases diverse sectors, each with its own challenges and opportunities for transformation.

LEATHER

Leather, a timeless and versatile material, continues to play a significant role in various industries, with a production volume amounting to approximately 13.4 million tonnes in 2022.

While traditional leather standards have predominantly focused on processing risks such as tanning and chemical use, there is a shift towards broader considerations encompassing animal welfare, deforestation, land-use change and climate change. Initiatives such as the Leather Impact Accelerator (LIA) spearheaded by Textile Exchange are paving the way for industry-wide transformation.

Through tools like Impact Incentives, brands can directly support farmers who are committed to tackling deforestation, land conversion and improving animal welfare standards. The recent launch of the Deforestation-Free Call to Action for Leather underscores a collective commitment towards sustainable sourcing practices, aiming to transition to deforestation/conversion-free supply chains by 2030.

RUBBER

Rubber, another integral component of the global economy, witnessed a production volume of around 14 million tonnes in 2022, with natural rubber comprising 48 per cent of the total market. However, the industry faces challenges related to sustainability, with only 2.9 per cent of global rubber-producing areas being FSC- and PEFC-certified. Despite this, there is a noticeable increase in certified sites, indicating a rising acknowledgment of the significance of responsible sourcing practices.

This surge in certifications, encompassing a portfolio of standards including the Global Recycled Standard (GRS), Organic Content Standard (OCS) and Responsible Down Standard (RdS), signifies a collective commitment towards fostering transparency, traceability and sustainability across the rubber supply chain.

The significant increase in certified sites from 48,868 in 2021 to 60,321 in 2022 underscores the industry’s momentum towards embracing sustainable practices. Initiatives such as the Global Recycled Standard (GRS), Responsible Wool Standard (RWS) and others serve as beacons guiding the industry towards a more sustainable future. As stakeholders continue to prioritise environmental and social factors, the non-fibrous materials market is on the brink of a transformative journey towards resilience and the responsible stewardship of global resources.

In essence, the future of the global fibre industry hinges on bold and concerted action on the part of industry stakeholders. In order to realise the vision of a sustainable and resilient ecosystem, stakeholders must prioritise innovation, collaboration and an unwavering commitment to sustainability principles. Only through such collective resolve can we navigate the path towards a more prosperous and environmentally conscious future.

As the world marches towards a more sustainable future, the imperative for businesses is clear: embrace change, innovate relentlessly and chart a course towards a more resilient and eco-conscious fibre ecosystem.