Proper fit of a garment seems to be easier in these days as there are lots of innovative methods developed in apparel industry. From old age hard dress forms to soft compressible dress forms, legacy dress forms to customized brand specific dress forms, 3D pattern making to dynamic virtual e-fit over internet, the technology has given an edge to the fitting process. Besides that the availability of dress forms in various postures and shapes enabled fitting of garment more perfect.
Manufacturing of a garment requires initial sample (prototype) development and checking fit of the sample before mass manufacturing begins. Checking of garment fit at factory requires garment to be worn over standard size body form multiple times and many pinning, clipping, iteration takes place which makes use of live models impractical. Dress forms are considered as the initial substitute of the live models at manufacturing locations. Live models are very expensive and availability is also limited, therefore are currently used by brands and retailers only at their office for final fitting session.
Types and Applications
Dress forms are closest replica of human shape and are manufactured in various types to fulfil various purposes. There are:
- Hard dress forms
- Soft dress forms
- Virtual dress forms
Hard Dress Forms
Hard dress forms are used for loose fitted garments like formal shirt, trousers, etc. Loose fitted garments are worn easily and in hard dress forms; their drapability can be viewed properly. These are generally made from fibreglass or other hard materials and covered with foam or layers of cotton rib and outermost layer of high-quality linen. These dress forms are available for female, male and children separately. In female dress forms, separate collections are available for lingerie and pregnant woman. These dress forms are available in full and half, collapsible shoulders, fix short sleeve (cup), one or both side detachable full sleeve and short arm (cup), one or both detachable legs, detachable foots, etc. Some dress forms are having measurement lines (landmarks), detachable front torso, collapsible shoulder and hips, generally hanging from stands.
There are generally two categories of sizes in legacy dress forms: US and UK; the dress form manufacturers follow country-specific measurements in these dress forms. Vendors across the world use these dress forms according to the country they are exporting to. Apart from the legacy dress forms that come in varieties of sizes; often country specific, there is a trend towards brand specific dress forms. Established brands and retailers have custom-made their dress form exactly replicating their live model measurement. As per that brand’s measurement chart and grading different sizes dress forms are made and vendors across the world are supposed to use those standardized dress forms. This brand specific dress forms ensure global standardization and lesser iteration during sample approval. These brand-specific dress forms come either in hard or soft category, are comparatively expensive and made by only few manufacturers worldwide.
Soft Dress Forms
Soft dress form is made of silicon, Elastomer gel, TPE plastic Vinyl, Memory foam and other proprietary products. Such type of dress forms are used for tight garments like intimate wears, swim wears, etc. As it is compressible, snug fitted garments can be easily mounted on. Always a change occurs in shape of human figure when a tight fitting garment is worn. So the softness of such dress forms is one important feature, because it can replicate the change of shape in human figure. Soft dress forms are always pinnable, that help to hold the garment. The important features of these are:
1. Replicates exact size and shape as the live model.
2. Allows pinning on the surface.
3. Does away with chalk marks
4. Fitted garments are easily mounted on it.
5. Easily cleaned with water, without damage.
6. Has a long life.
The soft dress forms have not only overcome the disadvantages of linen dress forms but also have provided a viable alternative to expensive live models. Buyers are now turning towards the idea of soft dress forms, which help them to customize the form according to their model only once, by which they save on the cost of the models for different sessions and also overcome the nagging problems mentioned above. The material used to manufacture the soft dress form is different for different manufacturers. They have their own proprietary chemicals to make their soft dress forms. Hard dress forms are enough for loose fitting garments, but soft dress form also can be used… but no additional advantage.
Virtual Dress Forms
Almost all apparel CAD software suppliers who offer three-dimensional fit solutions now have virtual dress forms. These are created in the computer with input body measurement, can be viewed from any angle and any cross-section for re-confirming girth measurement. 3D scan data can be used to create a virtual dress form of any live fit model and once patterns have been created for any garment and virtually sewn, the fitting of the garment can be virtually tested on the virtual dress form. For which all data like ease, tightness, and frictional characteristics can be obtained for further modifying the garment. Virtual dress forms can reduce the sample approval period substantially.
Other parameters
These above mentioned dress forms are also manufactured in various shapes and postures, like display, classic, dressmaker, head/bust, torso (with and without arms), legs even dress forms for showcasing wigs also. In case of females the variety of dress forms is vast as their shape varies with the age, as missy, junior, women, pregnant, etc. Similarly in case of male and children, age and size wise dress forms of various shapes are available in the market. Now the cost depends upon factors like material, postures, size of the dress forms, etc. There are special features in some of the dress forms like adjustable dress forms, where joints are developed as detachable, compressible, but the main body is hard. Generally one of the shoulders is made compressible so that while wearing any knitted garment, it becomes easier. Also there are flexible or bendable dress forms, where shape or postures is changeable, as it is wired structure. Its shape changing property makes it applicable in various postures.
Currently there is considerable interest on flexible dress forms. A single dress form which can be changed to different size, shape and posture is of immense benefit to manufacturers, saving time and space. There are some manufacturers who offer innovative products like robotic mannequin from Fits.me. FitBots from Fits.me are patented robotic mannequins that can contort into about 1,00,000 unique body shapes. Currently used for virtual Fitting Room application, seamlessly integrated within a clothing retailer’s e-commerce site, where customers will be able to see how a particular item will fit their unique body.
There are many companies manufacturing dress forms as per standards of fit required in the international market today. Like Alvanon (USA), PGM (USA), Tukatech (USA), Clone Mannequin (India), Shapely Shadow Inc (USA), Wolf Form Company Inc (USA), Kennett-lindsel (UK), Ashoka’s Dummy Art (India), Figurette (India) Cad Modeling Ergonomics s.r.l (Italy).
