With layers getting lighter, it is just the right time to celebrate spring time dressing with a healthy serving of embroideries and embellishments. Prints and some bits of sequins were noticed the most in the S/S ’16 collections but now glittery embroidery, sequins, beads and metallic finishes are raging, as this trend is able to carry forward itself to Fall and S/S ’17 collections this year. From sophisticated maxis to chic sundresses, metallic, beaded, pearl, transparent sequins and similar looks are only getting bigger and better. Over-the-top glamour statements made famous by the popular faces of the ’70s are getting translated in adaptations of sequins, glitter, lurex and lame, as designers are still trying to keep the opulent and sophisticated spirit of ’70s alive. With over-exploitation of prints in the past year’s collections, it is mandatory for the exporters and designers to innovate in their approach and applications to keep this classic value addition away from monotony, and move towards embellishments, this time on…
Seen in a plethora of versions on the runways, red-carpet worthy gowns and streets, embellished surfaces are continuing to be eternally alluring and pushing the designers and garment manufacturers to experiment with different techniques to achieve the glitter effect. Razzle-dazzle, glitter, gloss or sheen – whichever way you want to describe the trend, the inclination towards embroidery and embellishments is back with a bang.
Sequins in varied applications have started to grow popular amongst different buyers, the reason why many exporters are trying different methods to give their unique touch of sparkle to their collections.
Many designers like Chanel and Lanvin in their Resort 2016 collections have stepped over minimal neutrals and bold prints, to give way to seriously superb futuristic shine. Another technique to achieve a different sequin application on garments is by means of printing on sequins, be it through pigment, acrylic or digital printing. Sequins knitted with summer jerseys are gaining popularity amongst wearers. Atul Mittal, MD, Bharti Udyog said, “The trend is now more towards shiny designs and patterns. Till last season, the trend was towards the use of achieving the same through prints, but suddenly again there is an upheaval of glistening embroideries in the export market.”
Embroidery, seen in several versions on the runways, with shiny surfaces are eternally alluring and pushing the designers and garment manufacturers to experiment with different techniques to achieve the same in their garments. Adaptations in sequins, thread embroidery and beading are a throwback to the dazzling ’70s. The trend was evident in Louis Vuitton’s, Ellery’s and many other ace designers’ Fall 2016 collections. Stand-out looks include shiny embroideries on sweaters overlapped with metallic ornaments etc. Badgley Mischka’s looks stood out owing to a stunning aqua blue column dress embellished with 3D pink and yellow glass flowers and a belted metallic, brocade skirt, garnished with shaped sequins. Creatures of the Wind delivered flowy foiled gowns that looked ethereal and Goth at the same time with a help of fringes and embroidery on the bodice, nicely punctuated with earthy bronze metallic sequins. Michael Kors showcased bead filled dress, whereas, Sonia Rykiel, touched down the ’70s with diagonal stripes of shiny threads running on the entire length of the dress.
While sequins may rule the dance floor and beading may have taken over the eveningwear segment, zari embroidery is still stunning and is getting incorporated in the collections of many designers and exporters. Interestingly, even western weddingwear is seeing the bling effect. Mirror work, appliqué work, and resham embroidery are trending in different collections being offered to international brands. Rachit Poddar, Director, Cheer Sagar Exports, explaining about the use of embroidery to bring out the glitter feel said, “We are doing a lot of value additions and glitter is of prime importance. We try to add value in each product. Even if it is a print, we would like to add some embroidery to it too. We are doing lot of things in embroideries, mirrors and beads. The effort is to create combinations of Indian embroidery with modern technology and futuristic colours in high-street silhouettes.”
Corroborating with the same, Vinod Mongia, Director, Manya Creations, further adds, “We are primarily into beaded and embellished eveningwear; therefore, glittery adornments, value-added products with beading and sequences are our USPs. We are doing a lot of hand beading and sequencing and putting together different shiny fabrics for the dazzle effect.” After witnessing years of similar applications, sequin has become a commodity and a surface ornamentation awaiting a breakthrough innovation to happen in their application or look creation. Overused at times, sequins have always portrayed a jazzy yet elegant aesthetic. Exporters and designers have also reached a state where any normal application of sequin on a garment or accessory gives them a feeling of familiarity and commonness. Since the time fringes and tassels took over, sequins in the mass segment are only seen as a small disk-shaped bead which is used for overall decorative purposes. But now it’s time to change the perspective and dig out all the possible variations that a sequin can have to revamp its stature in the industry.
While talking about shine and shimmer, thread embroideries are also incorporating themselves into the sampling. Though exporters are moving ahead of the archetypical ways of attaining shimmer and are experimenting with fabrics, printing and heat press stones, but still thread embroidery in new colours, types and applications is keeping the technique as a major add on.
Ideas like application of multi-colour sequins, dual dangling embroideries which work completely opposite to sequin’s usual sparkly look, make the industry take up embellishments as a new ‘must have’. Jinen Shah, Director, Satya Designs Pvt. Ltd. says, “We are developing interesting and innovative range of jacquard fabrics in shiny and silvery surfaces to meet the demand. Arriving with the concept of everyday embellishment, thread embroideries are being used in a much more mature and elegant ways in comparison to the playful and bright, past applications, signifying only partywear.”