Although the previous seasons repeatedly reflected the obsession for oversized coats and jackets, these larger than life silhouettes gained the maximum attention on the recent pre-fall 2016 runways. Knit pullover sweaters, lightweight cover-ups and open printed cardigan sweaters, took a back seat to let oversize coats take the centre-stage. Oversize silhouettes have lately been looking flawlessly perfect, and these runway collections proved that ‘size does matter’. For a long time, custom fits and skin tight clothes have been in power in the fashion scene. But the latest trend is to go loose. Taking the cue from the runway trends some exporters are recognising oversize as a growing trend but some exporters surprisingly are completely unaware of the trend…
Oversize is definitely on the rise! Oversize is stepping up this season, especially for fall and winter collections, for both men and women. Much to our disappointment, Indian exporters who are too busy with summer collections rarely show interest in developing fall collections and that’s the reason most of the runway ruling trends are never able to get transformed into big orders for them. But those who do take notice are in tune with what is the direction, as designers are making sure that oversize does not look sloppy, and believe in giving the fabrics a certain weight and quality, so that the natural fall of the garment looks beautiful. Kanchan Kumari, Designer, Volta Fashions Pvt. Ltd., exporters of garments said, “Fuller tailoring is less grungy and lazy, in fact more chic and feminine, and in this season these oversized looks are embracing more dainty cuts and patterns.”
The flexibility of wearing an oversized garment is attracting designers to explore this lucrative trend. The change began with big, bulky, and sculptural coats that gradually caught on to the rest of the products. The biggest benefit of oversized fashion is that it fits any figure. Exporters are trying to develop styles in their staple sizes which are fitted and loose at all the right places.
Dressing over proportion is making its way in fashion and is a rising trend; everyone seems to be sporting it. Roberto Cavalli’s knit resembled a laidback robe coat which was cinched with a knot; Salvatore Ferragamo opted for length as his textured version was open from the front and went up into a cosy muffler. Versace kept things classy and simple by throwing on a lightweight oversized shrug on a brown leather jacket. Most of the collections that incorporated this trend stuck to neutrals like greys, blacks, browns and beige.
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Topshop Unique’s pre-fall collection ranged from the oversize and sturdy, to the flowing and fanciful. Outerwear was a big part of this youthful, commercial collection, and highlights included a roomy, leopard-patterned cloque coat and a chartreuse crackled leather coat – both with a shearling collars – as well as oversize corduroy Crombie. Similar to this look was created by Burberry, where a khaki jacket adorned over Denim also came in maxi proportions, as in wide-legged boyfriend jeans and a black maxi skirt.
Varsha Bhawnani, MD, Vinegar Exports Pvt. Ltd., exporters of readymade garments to Europe, Russia and the US, explained the importance of oversized clothing, “Oversized clothes if worn in the right way can also look just as chic and smart as the skin-hugging ones. Bulky bottoms like balloon skirts, flared palazzo pants, are also another way of carrying out the oversized boyfriend fashion.” These clothes were seen on the runway and collections with large shirts, tunics, skirts, pants, jackets, and dresses were showcased by designer labels like Gucci, Balenciaga, Chloe, and Moschino. Oversize is breaking all the fashion rules and is making clothing comfortable. Sizing up is the new fad, rather than sizing down. A sporty twist came via oversize puffed jackets in geometric patterns with a magnified version of the brand’s new Blasone logo in the collection showcase of Emilio Pucci in the Pre-Fall 2016 runways.
In fact, oversized men’s coats are the next big thing for the upcoming fall/winter season; Trussardi, Chanel, Michael Kors, and Christopher Kane created interesting closures in neutral and dark shades for this year’s runway collection. Oversized leather jackets are a big hit too. However, the shorts and trousers still remain fitted for men. Oversized leather jackets didn’t get famous only in the men’s section, but equally in the women’s collections too. Rebecca Minkoff’s pre-fall, envisioned a Penny Lane-music festival look with floral dresses, off-the-shoulder ruffled tops and cute little suede dresses topped by oversize leather jackets. Kriti Singh, Designer, Shahi Exports, discussing about the colours being in use this season said, “The oversized clothing collections are being developed in hues of neutrals, navy blues, browns, blacks. As mostly we are developing outwears instead of bottoms and tops.”
Pre-fall sees garments refreshed with standout proportions, blowing up separates and coordinates with oversized shapes. XXL tailoring makes a masculine-look statement, blurring the boundaries between formal and casual looks. Meanwhile, seasonal layering allows for directional styling, as billowing outerwear is worn over long-line dresses and chunky knits are bulked out with heavyweight sleeveless coats. Inspired by Sonia Delaunay’s paintings, graphic treatments were seen on cozy needle punch cashmere knits and an oversize blue-and-white sweater that hinted at subtle maritime theme, in the collection of Aquilano Rimondi.
It is wide sweaters, loose shirts, and relaxing pyjama-styled pants that are creating new style waves. Swati Sood, Assistant Merchandiser, Li & Fung said, “Baggy but cropped cotton pants are preferred for the summer, while the winter look includes large silhouetted woollen cardigans, puffy round sleeved jackets, and huge eccentric collared coats.” The oversized trend is being embraced by trendsetters, and has carved a place for itself among men and women, of all sizes and shapes. The ultra-comfort fit and soft cosiness of garments makes it most suitable for winters.
