Once you carefully trudge through all the men’s fall collections for 2017, it becomes quite clear that bundling up is the biggest trend of the season. Whether it is an outcome of the temperatures getting colder than ever or the post-apocalyptic political atmosphere at large, everyone wants to wrap up in a swathe of fabrics this winter.
Where puffer jackets have been the rage for a couple of seasons, it only seems obvious to ascertain that quilting is also back with a bang. That makes perfect sense because it is an amalgamation of the main demands from everyone this season, which is first to look great and second is to be comfortable while doing it. Quilting is a technique that works in creating interesting textures without being too ornate and it is as functional as it is flamboyant.
After all, how else can you entomb yourself in all the comfortable draperies of the world and still look stylish? It is quite simple; you stitch them all together the way your grandmother taught you to, back in the ’70s!
Bigger is Better
So many designers took the saying ‘go big or go home’ seriously this season that it now sounds like a biblical verse that everyone needs to follow. Big puffy outerwear was a major trend on both the runway and the streets having become more about snuggling in inflated shapes over anything else.
Designers like Rick Owens and Christopher Shannon created bigger-than-life silhouettes resembling a stuffy duvet while Dolce & Gabbana and Moncler Gamme Bleu upped the ante even further by adding patchwork and slim ropes into the mix.
Are Bombers Classic Yet?
Athleisure’s favourite lovechild and the biggest hoot to all the Americana themed collections of this season is our bomber jacket. A style that has stayed for a period long enough to garner ample love resulting in its making and remaking through varying techniques and enhancements. This season’s utilitarian bomber is making use of quilting to create soft rounded silhouettes.
From Giorgio Armani to Todd Snyder, a good fitted bomber was key to looking like a big, curvy dole of love. Colours were functional where Dondup presented a cobalt blue and Tim Coppens stuck to the season’s khaki green.
Eye for Detail
With a very apparent hint of nostalgic sensibilities, quilt adds a dimensional appeal as well as textural interest wherever it is applied. Such is the tactile beauty of this technique that designers are craving for its application in everything from oversized outerwear to more specific details to instantly elevate basic styles.
Agi and Sam applied a small quilt panel on one side of the jacket, Astrid Anderson quilted only half of his jacket with metallic fabric and Balmain added embellishments to each of the quilted intersections leaving everyone behind.
Bringing in some method to the madness in our world is the latest trend of co-ordinated outfits and casual suiting sets. However, when we think of men’s suits, we imagine something strict, structured, and perhaps reserved to specific fabrics. Observing the amusing co-ordinates taking sharply different approaches to quilting, we sense a new wave of ironic business casuals approaching.
Ermenegildo Zegna and MSGM both presented looks that you could easily walk to work in, while Topman and Facetasm’s co-ordinates fit better for an athletic affair. Maybe we will see them on Kanye West or one of his friends soon.
Brighter Than Life
The days of wearing only deep dark colours are soon going to be far behind us. Beginning with outerwear in the most saturated hues on the wheel, we move on to our highlighter box because crayon colours are just not enough. Maybe it is a hint at neon’s return or just the fact that synthetics are the perfect ground to go colour crazy but designers did not shy away from colour this winter.
From Dior’s starched white or Dries Van Noten’s hot red to Our Legacy’s neon green, there is a brightly quilted colour party happening everywhere this winter.
Heart of Luxury
What do you normally think about when quilting and puffer jackets come to mind? A very utilitarian and functional piece of outerwear. However, it does not mean that all the ostentation has to go out of the window. Therefore, while luxe quilting has been lurking around through accessories like the classic Chanel shoulder bag for ages, its appeal in lavish garmenting is still under exploration.
By using more unconventionally trendy fabrics like corduroy and velvet that completely change the face of quilting, as we know it, designers like Billy Reid and Berluti are breathing new life into the trend.
What the industry has to say on quilting…
“We are making plenty of women’s quilting jackets for the next winter. The demand is mostly for heavy-duty outerwear with thick padding and contrast through the means of lining. In terms of colour, we are working on classics like red, black and olive green but there is a lot of ombre work and tie & dye also happening to create eye-catching styles. Fabrics like staple twills, viscose and velvet are highest in demand this season.” Sudhir Kumar, Shiraj Exports
“We are making light quilted jackets in bright prints using block printing or just bright colours for more ethnic looks. The demand is more of wearable and utilitarian designs so we are making reversible jackets that have print on one side and solid colours on the other. The general fabrics we are using revolve around solid rayon, viscose and cotton. ” Sandeep Kukkar, Siddarth Organization
“We have noticed that light yet cosily warm quilts are always more in demand. We are mostly designing vests and jackets in a combination of acrylic furs and other poly-acrylic fabrics for durability. To uplift the inherent texture of the quilts we are always employing vivid prints or detailing through solid colours as well as embroidered embellishments for added interest. For winter, the colour palette in the mass market is mostly dark usually around blacks, navy, khaki and wine. There is a new demand for khadi fabrics and flannelette in our quilted range as well.” Tushar Bhatnagar, Tushar Handworks