Regarded as a silhouette for the summers, wide-legged culottes have become an integral part of autumn collections as well, and were seen at the recently concluded Pre-Fall ’15 runways, which appeared in a staggering number of collections, and amongst all, the cropped version became particularly popular. With a noticeable trickledown effect of this trend from runways to mainstream fashion, exporters have grabbed the opportunity in full force and are developing wide-legged pants in their own individualistic design variations. More importantly, with growing inclination of women towards androgynous fashion, the culottes’ simple construction and comfortable silhouette make them a favourite amongst wearers as well as manufacturers.
Culottes in different lengths and varied guises are entering the industry to suit the sartorial styles of women. Valentino’s Pre-Fall ’15 collection showcased denim adaptations of wide-legged calf length pants, whereas, BCBG Max Azria and Carven presented formal looking wide hem cropped culottes in heavy weight taffeta and pinstriped fabrics. Culottes were officially termed as the ‘must-have’ pants for as spring, but with exporters converting these styles in winter suitable fabrics, this silhouette has become a fall collection staple.
Discussing the increasing demand for wide-legged pants for fall sampling, Nandini Pal, Designer, Bershka, ITX Trading SA, INDITEX said, “The gradual shift from super skinny to wide-legged or boot-cut is quite prominent. Trousers in the upcoming season, though straight and structured, will not be as form fitting as the lowers of the past seasons. Brands catering to working women will have trousers which are wider at the bottom, but overall still structured and fitted; whereas for younger brands ‘baggy and comfortable’ is the way to go, a trend that is making way for culottes.” Though prominent since last 6 seasons, the wide-legged culottes or gaucho pants seemed to have gained momentum this season. Giving her perspective to the trend, Swati Sood, Assistant Merchandiser, Li & Fung said, “We are working on mannish fits as well as the pegs, but being a junior brand we are more for the relaxed fit. We are continuing the relaxed trend, so mostly it’s the same from last season but with slight changes in details and in the type of fabrics and prints.
Incorporating the culottes style pants in jumpsuits, Derek Lam 10 Crosby, showcased their version using chambray as a medium. Derek Lam, for his individual brand, also created a version in dark-coloured denims, bringing back the vintage American wide-legged pants feeling. Gaucho was incepted as the South American, equivalent to the American cowboy, while the word ‘culottes’ was introduced in France for a skirt that splits or divides like pants. As a break-away from the monotonous solid forms, culottes are being created in newer adaptations in prints, in various fabric bases, and getting decorated with distinctive trims.
Harish Kumar, Representative, Lila Shyam Exports, affirming that culottes were trending in a big way said, “Our collection of culottes is mostly being developed in prints and in a variety of colours. We are also developing pyjamas and wide-legged trousers in tribal, geometric, abstract, oriental and paisley prints; and in fabrics like chiffons, cottons, polyester blends and viscose fabrics.” Rajeev, Sr. Merchandiser & Designer, Colors India added, “For waist details, we are working with invisible adjustable waist on the inside of the waistband. While we are working with solid warm colours, we are also using Aztec and tribal prints.”
Culottes are being adorned with trims like buttons, elasticized or buckled waists, and laces and embellishments to add a supplementary edge. Halston Heritage fashioned their pair of culottes with wide pockets in the front, while Maiyet added an extra side panel to his interpretation with big metal buttons. Aditi Talwar, Assistant Merchandiser, Orient Craft India, discussing the variations in their collections said, “Semi-fitted trousers are being developed for the season; some are elasticized at the bottom, and some have different pocket details. The fit has loosened a little bit; waists are completely elasticized, as well as the back, and strings are also there with some beads at the end.”
Designers constant endeavours to make these pants as functional as ever, is pushing them to use different fabrics. While in cotton and linen the silhouette looks very casual, when rendered in menswear fabrics like wool blended, knitted fleece and jacquard, the silhouette becomes very sharp and edgy. Added Nandini, “For loose fitted pants, breathable fabrics such as rayon and cotton/tencel blends are most popular. The primary emphasis is on the ‘handfeel’ of the fabric. These fabrics have a good drape and fall, and feel like you’re wearing ‘next to nothing’. Lightweight chambrays and excel/tencel fabrics are popular for more fitted garments, and are currently in demand.”
Picking up the value addition trend of pleating from the recent runways, designers are making an amalgamation of the two by creating pleated culottes. BCBG Max Azria folded the lightweight poly-blend into knife pleats, giving a very liquid inspired form to the wide-legged pants, while Joseph presented a range of cropped and floor length culottes in heat set fabrics creased elegantly. Such add-ons to culottes not only make them suitable for different types of wearers, but also indicate the summer silhouette entering Fall collections. Culottes, unlike other pants, allow women with different body types and from different demographics to accept trousers as a wardrobe staple and be both trendy and comfortable at the same time, and the reason why the silhouette continues to be so popular.
