The moment we think of training in our industry, it is the sewing operator who we would want to train, forgetting that there are a number of other operations and processes in the garment manufacturing facility which are critical to the construction of the garment, leading to the growth of the organization, where skill training, upgradation and nurturing is equally important if not more. Spreading and cutting operation, fusing operation, ironing and pressing operation, thread cutting, spotting, finishing and packaging operation, embroidery and screen printing to name a few are among the critical areas where focused training can make huge difference to the performance of the company. In the pre-production area there are pattern making and grading operations which also require skill development on regular bases… Companies have to focus on these critical areas in training for holistic growth.
There are about 80 job descriptions which can be plotted in a facility, in which around 15 are in the pre-production and about the same in production stage, required to do different operations such as manage quality, supervise line, etc. and they all require training at some point of time to enhance their skills, mostly due to the latest advancements in technology and process. These professions need to be treated at par with the sewing skills since they are also equally important in the manufacturing process.
Apart from the above traditional skill areas, there are also new and ever evolving requirements like 3D fitting technique, seam welding and bonding, and other such areas. An existing pattern maker can be re-trained to evaluate 3D fittings while a sewing operator can be re-trained to operate bonding machine.
This article by Dr. Prabir Jana elucidates some critical non-sewing areas that need fresh attention for structured training.
Pattern Making has evolved with use of CAD
Pattern making can be taught in two methods: drafting as well as draping. Even today there are separate pure CAD operators and manual pattern makers. CAD is a tool for making pattern faster, accurate, repeatable, and digital. Manual pattern making is like writing a letter using pen and paper, use of CAD in pattern making can be compared to drafting the same letter in MS Word in computer. CAD training should be integrated with pattern making so that trained pattern makers can utilize CAD. A fit technician should have primary combined knowledge of pattern making and garment construction. Garment measurement, ease during sewing, seam type, pattern manipulation, balance of weight of garment, tension and fall characteristics of fabric; interrelation of all is crucial for perfect fit of garment. The technician should also have secondary knowledge of draping behaviour of different fabrics and different body shape/stance to predict/anticipate problems before they occur.
Spreading & Cutting specialist can save more for the company
Spreading and cutting is another area in apparel production which is less understood and hardly talked about. Operators should be taught the most common spreading modes and their relation with fabric motif types and time taken in each type. It is observed that nap one way and face one way spreading method is widely used even though it takes more time, because this is the safest method of spreading that can be used for all possible types of fabric. Basic cognitive skill training to spreading operator may save valuable time. Cutting skill is about precision, balance, control, and knowledge about minimum cut path. The cutter should be taught about the logic of minimum cut path logic, so that optimum effort is expended for maximum cut.
Fusing requires total understanding of interlining, machine and process
Fusing is an area in apparel production which is less dependent on operator’s skill. Operators are taught do’s and don’ts like interlining piece should always be little smaller in size than shell fabric, pieces should be always placed lengthwise in a moving conveyor belt, for plaids always do spot fusing, interlining piece should generally be placed on top (upside down), etc. Due to buyer’s compliance some of the good practices are taught to operators and being practiced by fusing operators across industry. Temperature test, pressure test, belt cleaning, etc. are being carried out at regular interval as prescribed in buyer’s manual.
Computerized Embroidery for value add
Computerized embroidery design in software is another important skill that requires training. Different stitch types and their aesthetic and functional characteristics are important to optimize cost while maintaining similar look. Cleverly reducing number of stitches while still maintaining the same look is another technique embroidery designers follow to increase production and optimize cost. Specialized computer embroidery software training is available from several brands on request.
Specialized Sewing Machines for more productivity
Traditional training of sewing operator uses only flat bed sewing machine with drop feed mechanism. Industrial sewing is more about use of correct methods by sewing operator as around 50% of the time is spent by sewing operator for associated operations like holding, placing, re-grasping, guiding, etc. A sewing operator should be taught correct use of two hand movements in synchronization without excessive effort. In a raised bed or cylinder bed sewing machine, operator’s hand motions are totally different from that of flat bed sewing. Similarly, when using variable top feed machine handling of fabric by operator will be different from that of drop feed machine. Although factory sponsored training programmes incorporate training of operators in special machine like feed off arm, but the emphasis should be on methods and not on sewing quality.
It is critical today to look at training in a holistic way and more initiatives both from the Government and the individual companies need to be taken to keep pace with evolving market needs in quality, productivity, speed of operations, etc.
Sewing Automats deskill
Use of sewing automats is an example of pinnacle of deskilling. Actually operators need not know sewing at all. Generally in all automats operator require picking up a fabric component and place, the sewing starts by sensor actuation and pieces are stacked automatically after sewing. Position of operator in respect to machine and overlapping movement is very important to operate more than one automat by single operator. Operators are taught not only hand movements but body movement and even footsteps to optimize the effort. The sewing automats are stand up sewing, therefore switching foot pedal operations between right and left leg is very important not to cause occupational injury due to resting body weight on one leg.
Ironing specialist can help save energy bill
Ironing is considered as ‘no-training required’ operation in industry. Same operators who used to use the electrical iron without steam and vacuum for decades are often given the sophisticated vacuum table with steam iron to operate. The operators obviously self-learn and nobody is there to correct their mistakes if any. Steam ironing in vacuum table can be compared with driving a car, the release of steam by thumb pressure and switching on/off vacuum by toe has to be performed in correct synchronization. Ideally vacuum should be off while steam is on and vice versa, however cent per cent operators keep the vacuum on while steam is also on. Keeping vacuum on while steaming the garment does not have any adverse quality problem with the garment but only wastage of steam, thus the requirement of steam generation. As this action does not result in any quality problem in the garment but only shoots up the energy consumption, the wrong method is rarely identified and corrected.
Finishing & Packing is now a skill required for perfect product
Finishing includes all operations post sewing, like thread trimming, spotting, inspection, folding, tagging, etc. These varieties of operations are very important but an ignored area in skill development. Completely novice first timers start with thread trimming and can graduate to become quality inspectors. Basic training regarding right method of holding the garment, maintaining right distance between nozzle and garment while spotting, sequence of use of chemical, water vapour, suction in spotting, eye movement path to be followed during inspection, etc. are equally important like sewing and to be imparted to willing operator before they are put into production line. The untrained operators execute the operations in their own way (often the incorrect method), thus either expending undue time and effort and/or resulting in unacceptable quality.
Apart from the above traditional skill areas, there are also new ever evolving requirements like 3D fitting technique, seam welding/bonding, etc. An existing pattern maker can be retrained to 3D fitting, or a sewing operator can be retrained to operate a seam welding/bonding machine.
