Broad, cold, exposed or padded – shoulder detailing is the rage of this season. Following the cut-out back trend, shoulders have also become a main area of experimentation. Emerging as one of the biggest trends in S/S ’16 runways – cutout, exposed and offthe-shoulder necklines also dubbed as ‘the cold shoulder’ are being seen in varied interpretations by designers. This season, the overall cutout trend has been taken a step further to highlight just the shoulder, making knits and blouses more comfier and dresses and playsuits even more breezier. From subtle and chic elements to over-thetop ones, most designers swore by elegant shoulder exposure with an unexpected twist. With exporters taking a cue from the runways, we are witnessing shoulder details in full-bloom in the retail section as well…
While this past summer, off-theshoulder had its moment, for next season it is all about the one shoulder look. From off-the-shoulder dresses and blouses, evening wear to a more casual style, the shoulder is getting its time to shine. Unlike other body parts, the shoulder is something that hasn’t been picked by designers for a very long time, but now with the fashion moving into the minimalistic domain, exposed shoulders in distinctive designs give an added edge to designs.
One Shoulder
This trend started with the one shoulder look. Seen on the runways of many designers, like Rag and Bone, where the dresses suffered a slip at one shoulder giving a more relaxed and sportsinspired look. Asymmetrical tops are sprinkled throughout the collections, from tops and casual dresses to full-on gowns. Jill Stuart showed silk, patterned one-sleeved blouses and dresses, fashion-forward label Tome showcased wrap-style single-shoulder blouses, and Cushnie at Ochs featured a killer draped one-shoulder jumpsuit, as well as some tighter variations on gowns and cocktail dresses. This ‘one arm in, one arm out’ trend formulates more appeal in less skin show and is suitable for all women age groups.
Off-the-Shoulder Neckline
The off-the-shoulder trend of summer is getting revamped for spring. Whether through an artfully constructed openshoulder shirt à la Altuzarra, or an elegantly draped sleeve as seen at Givenchy, the result is more insouciant than summer’s off-the-shoulder tops and decidedly more alluring than a plunging neckline or backless dress. Look for tops and gowns featuring cut-outs or asymmetrical necklines. The shoulder-baring silhouette either slashed to reveal just a peek of shoulder or strapless to reveal full shoulders. The off-the-shoulder design can be found in tops or in dresses, making it endlessly versatile and extremely popular. Hobostyle designs are getting hugely popular, especially in the mini-dress. A minidress with elasticised neckline pulled down to expose shoulders and long sleeves is the statement off-shoulder look as seen at Tory Burch, borrowed from the past.
The Pulled Down Collar
This erogenous zone shares the spotlight with bare midriffs and mile-long legs as well. Not looked as a strictly sensual detail, articles like shirts are also incorporating off-shoulder detailing. Proenza Schouler showcased a long shirt dress with collar pulled down to expose shoulders, similarly, Rosie Assoulin striped the neck and shoulder bare by bringing down the collared blouse. Whether completely exposed or veiled with transparent netting, bare shoulders are being embraced by anyone and everyone. At Maison Martin Margiela, shoulders were a focal point with oversized ball gowns that exposed little but the shoulders. Even more modern, Gucci showed a stunning black evening dress with the shoulders covered in keyhole netting. What’s more, the popular one shoulder look is still going strong, with designers like Emilio Pucci and Isabel Marant taking part.
The Cut-Out Effect
While off-the-shoulder exposure is continuing for the better, collections brought the trend back to forefront with discreet cut-out styles. Corroborating with the runway trend, the industry is also showing inclination towards working with laser-cut on a large extent. Since last 3-4 seasons, all-over cut-work and laser-cut patterns were in vogue but after the over-exhaustive use of this technique, now only certain parts are going through the cut-out effect, shoulder being one major area. Labels like Tibi, Rag & Bone, and Theory, are offering tonnes of pretty off-shoulder pieces, with varied cut-out effects.
Holding It Up
Another variation of the off-theshoulder is the halter and spaghetti strap similarity. The blouses and dresses witness addition of sleeves to the archetypical halter-necks. Hood by Air, attached long sleeves to its knitted blouse which was complete with elegant halter neck loop, whereas Peter Pilotto added lace detailing as a barely there sleeve, to add an additional oomph to its flowy dress.
Industry’s take on shoulder trends
Seen on runways, retail spaces and now street style, the DIY shoulder bare movement has now gained a fast pace. Some exporters are fully aware of the trend whereas some are still sticking to their buyer’s demands instead of giving their own interpretation of the trend…
Pawan Kumar Jain, Owner, Pawan Exports With a hint of the Bohemian about it, the current off-the-shoulder trend is one of the hottest looks this season and there’s no reason why Indian exporters shouldn’t be joining hands and developing such trends… We are certainly working on it.
Ramnik Singh Uppal, MD, RGC Industries Limited In our collections, we have not experimented much with the shoulder detailing but yes a few boat neck styles, off-the-shoulder blouses are there. We are not very certain that the shoulder is a main area of development, as no specific demand has come from the buyers, but we have created styles which are off-the-shoulders.
Rajeev Sujanti, MD, Chunnu Cloth & Craft (P) Ltd. We have decorated the yoke and sleeves with schiffli embroidery. This creates a sheer effect on the shoulders. We also have styles with elasticised necklines which can be pulled down and worn as offthe-shoulders.
Satyam, Assistant Designer, Shahi Exports Pvt. Ltd. Presently we are producing collections for Vero Moda, and for them we are creating tops, dresses, jumpsuits with lace details. Laces are covered on the shoulders whereas the solid fabric panels go on the front and the back. We are using cotton, poly-cotton, polyester and nylon laces in varying width for the styles.
