Taking inspiration from Spring/Summer 2015 fashion trends of matching crop tops, pencil midi skirts and pantsuits, designers have transferred the same into their Pre-Fall 2015 seasonal collections as well. Ensuring that the top and the bottom are exact matching sets, the makers keep an eye on every single detailing. Aware of the trend, exporters in India are also running parallel and are developing matching bralets with skirts and pantsuits in distinct ways. The emergence of this ‘head-to-toe’ fashion also proves that the 70s mania from the summers has not yet died; making us witness runways full of identical separates.
Moving far away from the trend of matching contrasting colours, we have reached a season where our blouses, jackets, skirts and trousers will be in the same colour, pattern or print. With top designers like Derek Lam, Elimilio Pucci and many others validating this point, the runways of Pre-Fall ’15 witnessed a wide variety of matching ensembles. Rachit Poddar, Managing Director, Cheer Sagar says, “We have been doing matching sets since the last few seasons. We are working on African inspired patterns and motifs which we translate into our styles using aari and thread embroidery, bead work and other embellishments. We are matching prints on trousers and blouses. We also have styles consisting of a beaded jacket and a beaded pair of shorts. Matching sets are a pre-requisite for the fall now and we expect it to be this way for the upcoming seasons as well.”
Using prints as a medium to define their matching tops and bottoms, Antonio Marras garnished his blouse and a pair of flared trousers with pleated floral print. On the other hand, Emilio Pucci prepared an array of stripes in assorted colours to showcase the popular patchwork-effect. The collection mesmerized us in a kaleidoscope of colours that moved in vertical bands from shoulders to feet. Taking calligraphy art too seriously, Kenzo adorned his pantsuit with white on black African inspired elements. Rupa Dutt, Vice-President, Lady London elaborated on the trend, “Crop sets are in demand, continuing from the summer season with a matching short skirts or shorts. The upper could be a corset or a cropped T-shirt. Now we can also see printed jackets with shorts.” Matching sets, especially pantsuits can be seen easily in cottons and wool blends, exhibiting vibrant prints, plaids and intricate geometric patterns.
Moving away from the prints, few designers preferred to stick to one solid colour and accentuate the wide-legged pants and tailored tops. The Row, Bottega Veneta, Derek Lam and Gucci took the viewer on official and home tours to depict the aptness of this matching trend in and out. Unaware of the trend of matching sets, there is a set of exporters who are producing blouses and trousers in similar patterns but are refusing to call them as matching sets. In winters, the versatility of fabrics comes into play as same fabrics can be used for making tops as well as bottoms. Satish Singhal, CEO, Mint Impex talking about his Fall ’15 collection, shared, “We are doing ladies garments and kids garments. We have a small capsule collection of S/S ’16. We mostly work on tops and trousers specializing in prints – tribal and geometric prints. As we get most of our fabrics from the mills, we have abundance of prints and fabrics. Therefore, according to the buyer’s demand, we are able to produce blouses and trousers in any print variety.”
Another exporter working on the lines of matching sets is Vinegar Exports. The company works on collaboration of sporty details with edgy and trendy fashion. Varsha Bhawnani, MD, Vinegar Exports, explaining about her Fall collection said, “We are doing lots of constructed jackets and focusing more on embroidered high-end garments, not really cocktail, but more like high-street fashion. We work a lot on jacquards and are constructing skirts and jackets in jacquard.”
Though designers for the runway and retail have taken a cue from the summer prints and developed the matching sets in similar prints and fashion, there is a bunch of designers who preferred to mend this style to the wintery style. Initializing styles in plaids and tartans, Proenza Schouler, unveiled her black and white tunic and wide-legged pants. Similarly, borrowing the military-fashion fever, Sonia Rykiel, displayed a set of military shirts and tailored trousers with military green rectangular detailing on khaki base. Sidelining all these predictable designs, Edun went a step ahead and showcased the perfect ready-to-wear three-piece suit, with concentric rectangles print and all-over button detailing.
Another reason for growing demand for matching sets is the declining phase of jumpsuits. Jumpsuits, as we know are mostly developed in one fabric and are very chic visually. Due to the numerous problems the wearer faces while wearing the jumpsuit, the style even after being a favourite was not able to survive many seasons. Now with matching sets, the user is able to achieve the similar look at their own comfort level. Agreeing with the point, Sharad Kapoor, Director, MLK Exports said, “This can be one of the reasons why matching sets are making their appearance in a full swing this season.” If there’s one fashion trend right now taking over the red carpet, it’s hands down matching sets.
