With summer and winter fashion overlapping, a wide range of arm manipulations can be seen on various fashion platforms to suit both seasons. Traditionally, sleeves were only looked upon as a part of a garment which covers the arms, but now referred to as armwear, the detailing has come a long way and now forms a major element in inducing character to a piece of clothing. For each garment worn above the waist, the arm design becomes even more crucial and a focus element. Lately, with a wave of innovation and experimentation touching the industry, many designers and exporters have started scooping in varied arm designs suitable for their S/S and A/W collections to give new dimensions to otherwise standard silhouettes. Dropping hints of their presence on the S/S ’16 runways, five major arm-wear trends have emerged as the must-haves for the upcoming seasons…
Fashion is all about contradictions, and while at one end shoulders are going bare…, sleeves are going extreme. Picked up from different era of style and fashion the following are a range of flattering arm patterns which will not only highlight the wearer’s best features but also tone down the flaws in the upcoming seasons… and the good news is that many product development teams at export houses are getting on to the trend in a big way.
The leg-o’-mutton
J.W.Anderson, typically, went extreme with sleeves. His leg-o’-mutton were outsized, the kind of sleeves that might make it difficult to negotiate doorways. Depicting the strong emergence of the Victorian era, S/S ’16 saw an increased influence of leg-o’-mutton arms. The leg-o’-mutton sleeve acquired its name because of its unusual shape; incredibly voluminous at top and tapering just below the elbow. Seen in a few fall seasons in the past, this sleeve witnessed a brief renaissance as women again relied upon its shape to balance out their fashionably full skirts. And today, this sleeve has again popped up on runway shows, making the designers go gaga again. Rishab Tandon, Partner, Rishab Fashion, sharing his interest in this arm design said, “Though the look is very Victorian but if constructed in lighter fabrics the sleeve gives a very distinct aesthetic. Though I feel, with growth of off-shoulder styles for the summer, this sleeve trend would be more prevalent in the winters.”
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The Bell
Sleeves were big at Roksanda Ilincic, Celine and Fendi with puffs and frills covering most models’ arms. One model wore a coat with frilled sleeves over a shirt with frills, in a sort of double-sleeve move. The bells were depicted in the best versions. This throwback to the 60’s bell sleeve with a structured twist is flattering on the arms making it a perfect choice for the summer and fall collections. Bell sleeve try and mimic the butterfly sleeves with less flare and shirring. This is the flauntier and more feminine version of the sleeve, translated in soft fabrics. The 70’s bell sleeve is probably the only style of clothing that has the power to simultaneously conjure images of medieval maidens. Notified as the translation of romance in sleeves, bell sleeves are statement-making in full volume and fluted variety. Yogesh Sadh, CEO, Kanishka Silks, discussing about the same said, “We are working with young contemporary fashion, which is targeting towards the younger girls. And for them the product line includes, beach coverups, kaftans, mostly with bell and loose peasant sleeves.”
The virago
Erdem Moralioglu, known to do his research thoroughly, was always going to go deep with sleeves. He used a version of the virago which, as sleeve geeks no doubt know, was really trendy in the 17th and 18th centuries. Marie Antoinette – the Alexa Chung of the 18th century – wore them. A virago sleeve is a full “paned” or “pansied” sleeve (that is, made of strips of fabric) gathered into two puffs by a ribbon or fabric band above the elbow. Slashing and puffing is a common style among the many interpretations of the virago. The sleeve arranged in several puffs down the arm can also be developed in layers with laces using overlapping technique. Very few exporters have experimented with this style as of now.
The asymmetric
Jonathan Saunders’ collection with a mix of graphic stripes brought in the asymmetric sleeve. It was a welcome addition for anyone who has a craze for Rodarte’s slew of asymmetrical necklines and sleeves. The asymmetrical sleeves made the dresses flow beautifully down the runways. Victoria Beckham, debuted asymmetry in her collection, one of the most coveted of New York Fashion Week. On the other hand, Anthony Vaccarello created a classy hybrid by combining peplum silhouette with an open arm. Inducing a flow in the sleeves of their denim dresses Lea Peckre, presented ruffled versions with minimal gathering and maximum slant cut.
Asymmetrical sleeves by nature are sexy as they are associated by the uneven cut that flows along when walking. Though stereotypically pushed into the category of summer fashion, asymmetry has become a dynamic fashion which flows with ease across summer and fall seasons. “This is one trend we never skip. One covered and one open arm, asymmetric neckline, high/low sleeves are a few ways to give rise to asymmetry,” shares Rajiv Singhi, Proprietor, Gad Fashions.
The bishop
Seen in many designs by Simone Rocha and Christian Dior, the bishop sleeve – full and tied at the wrist – smacks of 70’s bohemia and that’s why it’s totally 2016. With 70’s fashion brushing in a breath of fresh air into the S/S ’16 collections, the bishop sleeve is the best variant to boast of. Emilia Wickstead did a particularly nice bishop version, mixing it with a more structured dolman application, whereas, a 3/4 bishop sleeve was seen at Verrier, much easier to wear than the full-length traditional bishop sleeve. As shoulders are emerging as the new legs in the fashion world, designers are experimenting with crazy versions of this feminine bishop trend. Bishop sleeves are a lighter version of pleated cap sleeves and peasant sleeves. They are so versatile that whether it’s a fancy flounce on a little black dress or a swell of fabric on a vintage bolero, they make a silhouette soft yet dramatic. Chloe, Valentino and many others provided perfect examples to best execute this festive detail. Manish Sareen, President, Sangar Overseas nodded his approval of the fact that puff sleeves have re-emerged in the runways and have high chances of being carried forward in the coming seasons. His product development team is already looking at the options.
