It’s that time of the year again when designers raise the zeal of fashion, their muses impeccably dressed on the runway in their finest fall ensembles; when models, strutting in furs and coats, are greeted by the frenzy of light bulbs and elaborate stage sets, and in recent times, followed widely by bloggers and photographers from across the globe. Rounding up the trends of New York Fashion Week and the classic British sensibility at London, velvet, fur, denim were the most sought-after fabrics, winter florals, plaids and stripes were decorated on ensembles, and either all black or shades revolving around pink, dominated the runways.
1) 60s – 70s Rewind
Spring 2015 has already laid the foundation for the 70s trend – warming up to retro and moulding tastes for wider fits and completely vintage accessories. With knee high boots, suede fringing, A-line skirts and flared denim, there were two phases of the 70s trend on the New York runways – first was taking its inspiration from the hedonistic 70s; rock ’n roll and glamour with sequin party dresses at Rodarte, lurex strips at Jill Stuart and knitted at Ohne Titel. The second set of inspired fashion included mule shoes, flares, turtlenecks, wide culottes, capes and denim. London’s designers merged their 70s and 60s shift dresses, pinafores, mini and A-line skirts with brightly coloured knee high boots and raincoats.
New York designers like Josie Natori, Red Valentino and Milly put authentic capes on the runway, but many designers worked cape shapes into a hybrid coat. Lacoste’s and Michael Kors’ collections put mannish woollen coats, with cut off sleeves, Tommy Hilfiger and Libertine both presented eye-catching red cape coats – Libertine’s belted and Hilfiger’s 3⁄4 sleeved. London picked up where New York left off with capes by offering various different styles of the new garment trend. On the Burberry Prorsum runway, there was a fur cape given a polished edge with double-breasted fastening, fringed and embellished. Hunter’s waterproofed nylon coats were based on practicality and Orla Kiely’s classic shapes, which included storm flaps and a Peter Pan collar – in pink were positively feminine.
3) High Necks
In both the fashion capitals, turtleneck tops and sweaters were critical to Fall 2015. They were all over the runways, coyly layered beneath blazers, jumpsuits, strappy dresses and pinafores at Thakoon, Sea, Tanya Taylor and Zimmermann. J. Crew built them into slouchy sweaters worn with really wide pants, while Proenza Schouler’s clingy and revealing knit dresses included long sleeved turtlenecks. There were exaggerated versions at Edun and Richard Chai, as well as exaggerated funnel necks at DKNY. High necks featured on knitwear pieces at Paul Smith were square cut and navy, Topshop Unique had cream Arran and Vivienne Westwood, an orange cowl-turtleneck hybrid. They were also lighter layers of the trend at Issa, and textured and printed ones at Peter Pilotto.
New York decided not to let go of the jumpsuit trend just yet. The many clever versions incorporated short-sleeved forms with Red Valentino’s floral ensemble or in denim by Frame, Sea and Rachel Antonoff. Things got subtler during Diane Von Furstenburg’s polka dot 70s flashback, far more formal in Prabal Gurung’s tuxedo styling and sublimely streamlined at Narciso Rodriguez. Since the market has responded positively to dungarees and all in ones, and therefore working these jumpsuits into Fall’s assortments was an easy choice for most. Utilitarian styling, with boxy cuts and workwear detailing are one option, and eveningwear cuts in silk is another. Not to forget, with the season’s inclination for denim, they advise you to experiment with this.
5) Sass & Bide
This trend completely aligns with London as leather trousers in dark tones were worked into numerous collections. At House of Holland, they were skin tight – more of a layering piece for statement tops and blouses. Though it’s the bolder pieces that were more promising – high-waisted leather trousers at Topshop Unique, not entirely fitted, Sass & Bide’s, also high-cut, were paired with a matching leather crop top – hinting at the rock ’n roll vibe. And Lucas Nascimento’s deep brown version was bagged-out, resembling almost lounge-appropriate, worn with a cosy textured sweater. While leather skirts were popular throughout 2014, leather culottes and pants will be popular in Fall ’15-16.